Un verano en Portugal

The waves were approaching towards us, slow, elastic, manageable. We raffled the first of the series, which caused our boards to go upright, and we faced the second. -Come on, Manuel! Paddle it! I thought it was going to break on top of my head. I arched my back, paddled as hard as I could, dropped my weight on my ribs and felt the wave push me, the board move. -Now! Get up! I put my feet in the center and let myself go, and it was as if the sea took me by the hand. Incredible. I managed to ride a couple more waves, leaving the foam behind me and moving towards the wall of water. The feeling of fullness and happiness was so intense that I came to understand the passion of Joel, of Colin and of all the hanged who got up early to take their first bath in the morning.